The Courageous Women on the Frontlines Protecting the Heart of the Leuser

IMAGES & WORDS BY LINDSAY HUGHES

Upon landing in Medan, the air was noticeably thick and sweet — and the clothes clinging to my skin were a testament to the region's tropical climate. Our first evening in the city was marked by a gathering that felt more like a reunion than an introductory dinner. Around the table, names and stories were exchanged with the same enthusiasm and warmth as the city that surrounded us. Each member of the group brought a unique perspective and a shared passion for the natural world, enriching the conversation with tales of former travels. The anticipation among our group was palpable. We were finally embarking on a journey to the Leuser Ecosystem, a place often whispered about in conservation circles as a bastion of untouched natural beauty and biological diversity.

As we navigated through the bustling streets of Medan, our minds were already journeying ahead, imagining the dense rainforests, the calls of the wild, and the adventures that awaited us. The Leuser was not only calling us — it was bringing us together.

What follows are my personal reflections from an unforgettable experience that began in the bustling city of Medan and led me deep into the heart of the Leuser Ecosystem — and in the end, brought me back to myself in the process. I’m forever changed by the people I met who dedicate their lives to saving this remarkable part of the world.

Medan: A Testament to Resilience

In Medan, a city that vividly illustrates its layered history, the remnants of Dutch and British colonial rule are evident. The architecture, the street layout, and even the food speak of a time when this region was suffocated under the heavy hand of colonial rule, primarily used as a gateway to export vast natural resources. The city, in its bustling present, still whispers stories of its past — of exploitation, resistance, and survival.

The Road to Bukit Lawang: A Landscape Shaped by History

Serpentining roads from Medan to Bukit Lawang, we pass through landscapes that bear witness to further colonial exploitation. These rigidly lined stretches of palm oil plantations are more than just agricultural land; they are symbols of a dark past when native forests fell to foreign rule. These plantations are relics of a time when the land and its people were seen as mere commodities, a stark reminder of the lasting impact it continues to have on both the landscape and the people of the region.

Entering the Leuser Ecosystem: A World Apart

Hiking in from Bukit Lawang into the Leuser Ecosystem is like stepping into another world. The sudden immersion into the dense forest was a sensory revelation. The air, thick with humidity, was a stark contrast to the managed coolness of the palm oil plantations that seem to dominate the landscape in North Sumatra. The distant calls of gibbons, the rustle of leaves underfoot, and the gentle breezes through the canopy: signs of a thriving balanced haven. As we continued to venture deeper in the forest, the texture of compass trees, the sight of dappled sunlight breaking through the dense leaves overhead, and the chorus of unseen wildlife created a tapestry of experiences, each moment painting a vivid picture of this lush and vibrant place like no other. As a guest in the heart of the Leuser, I was an observer, witnessing its beauty and the complexity of one of the planet's most biodiverse ecosystems. I was in awe of my surroundings.

The Vulnerable Boundaries of the Leuser

One of the Leuser’s most significant vulnerabilities lies in its lack of defined boundaries, leaving it susceptible to encroachment. The blurred lines between protected and non-protected areas has resulted in numerous challenges: land-use conflicts, unchecked agricultural expansion, and infrastructure development that disrupts and fragments this delicate ecosystem. The absence of clear demarcation complicates conservation efforts and exacerbates habitat and biodiversity loss along its borders.

Nuraga Bhumi: A Beacon of Hope

Nuraga Bhumi, founded by Nayla Azmi Dalimunthe, comprising local women and LGBTQIA+ rangers, stands as a beacon for conservation in Bukit Lawang. These rangers are protectors; harbingers echoing a critical message to the world, akin to canaries in a coal mine. Their daily patrols, deep within the lush forest, do more than safeguard diverse wildlife; they send a resounding alarm about the urgent need to protect this vital natural haven, integral to the health of the entire planet. As they navigate the forest, these rangers embody a warning — the Leuser's survival is not only a local concern, it’s a global imperative and a collective call to action that we all must heed.

The Indigenous Connection: Guardians of the Leuser

The Indigenous communities living around the Leuser who rely on the forest for their livelihood are, too, frontline protectors of the ecosystem. Recognizing and empowering Indigenous communities is essential for the conservation of the Leuser Ecosystem. Efforts like Nuraga Bhumi protect this region by centering the rights and knowledge of its Indigenous peoples, acknowledging their role as custodians and keepers of the land. In doing so, it reinforces the understanding that our existence and well-being are deeply interconnected with those of our environment and fellow human beings. The survival of the Leuser is not just a matter of environmental concern; it is about preserving the cultural and social fabric that binds these communities to their ancestral lands. The stories, ancestral knowledge, and resiliency of Indigenous communities is what allows the Leuser to have an enduring legacy.

Educators and Role Models: The Women of Nuraga Bhumi

Nuraga Bhumi’s female rangers, with their intimate knowledge of the forest, serve as exceptional role models and educators. As Nayla says, "Teach a child to love the river, and they will protect it for life" holds profound relevance locally, creating a lifelong deep connection to the Leuser.

These remarkable women patrolling and protecting; are actively engaged in passing down ancestral knowledge to the next generation of forest protectors. Through their actions and teachings, they are cultivating a deep-rooted understanding and respect for the natural world in young minds. Their presence and leadership in the community challenge traditional gender roles, particularly in conservation, thereby empowering young girls in their communities to envision themselves as future custodians of nature. By sharing stories of the forest, these rangers are instilling a sense of responsibility and connection to the land. This transfer of knowledge is vital, carrying forward the legacy of stewardship with pride and determination.

The story of the Leuser Ecosystem and its protectors is a microcosm of the larger environmental challenges facing the planet. It highlights the need for global awareness and action in preserving irreplaceable natural wonders that are on the brink of disappearing forever. The fate of the Leuser is not just a local concern; it is a matter of international environmental and cultural significance.

As the world grapples with climate change and biodiversity loss, the Leuser Ecosystem stands as a reminder of what is at stake. The courage and determination of groups like Nuraga Bhumi offer hope and a path forward. Their fight is not only for the Leuser; it is a fight for the future of the planet. Every one of us could learn from the communities surrounding the Leuser.

In the end, we all have a responsibility to protect it.